Mexican avocados start to produce fruit early on; in the months of January and February. We discussed the factors that impact the growing time and time span avocados take to grow. Hi, I am Charlotte, I love cooking and in my previous life, I was a chef. I bring some of my experience to the recipes on this hub and answer your food questions.
We are a group of food lovers who answer your questions about various kitchen appliances and curate some of our best recipes. How long does it take for an avocado fruit to grow? How long does it take for an avocado tree to produce fruit? What conditions must you provide an avocado tree for it to bear fruit? Some Bonus Points regarding harvesting and ripening of avocado fruit: Avocados are seasonally harvested; after having matured on the tree.
Maturity is attained when the avocado is still a part of the tree. After it is plucked off, the ripening process begins.
Therefore, the harvesting process is very crucial, and a slight mistake can deem the Avocado inedible. The avocado needs to be plucked off immediately after they become mature. If the avocados do not fall off because of their weight, the seeds inside the fruit start to sprout which cuts the flesh and makes an avocado lose its optimum quality. Avocados will ripen after harvesting and are picked before they get a chance to soften.
Interestingly, they are Dark green in an unripe state but change to purple-black as they ripen. Its color is not always consistent with its ripening status. In other words, the avocado may be dark and visually seem ripe, but the interior has not changed at the same pace as the skin of the avocado has.
Avocado provides us with Vitamin E, potassium, and natural oils. It helps to lower cholesterol, prevent heart diseases and cancer. An avocado tree must reach a certain age before it can fruit. Trees that are sold commercially are grafted from mature avocado varieties and produce fruit more quickly and reliably than trees grown from seed. If you grew your tree from an avocado pit, it won't bear fruit until it's at least 10 years old, and you may have to wait up to 15 years.
On the other hand, if you planted a tree from a nursery or garden center, the tree should begin to produce a crop after three or four years. For the best yields of fruit, two avocado trees are required. Avocado tree cultivars produce either type A flowers or type B flowers. Both flower types produce and are receptive to pollen at different times of day, and the best pollination and fruit set occur when type A and B avocado cultivars grow together.
If both trees are growing in the same garden, the overall yield should be higher than that from two trees growing alone. However, some cultivars naturally bear fruit only every other year.
Avocado trees require specific growing conditions to produce a crop of fruit. The trees grow best in sandy loam, and although they will survive growing in shade, they only bear fruit when growing in a sunny spot. I am in El Cajon, CA. Perhaps we are watering incorrectly.
I would like some ideas. This year we had hundreds of 3 Lon fruits one day in a few days they were all on the ground. We recently wind up with about fruits bur none this year. There is another tree at a neighbors house about feet away. Thanks for any ideas and help. One is that avocado trees sometimes have a lot of fruit one year and then little fruit the next year — sometimes even zero fruit.
This is natural and inevitable. Another idea is that many avocado trees, especially in inland areas like El Cajon, lost their young fruit this summer during the extreme heat of early July. Many of my trees lost most or even all of their young fruit. If the leaves are mostly green, keep up the good work. But if they have browned more than about a quarter of the leaf surfaces, then the tree would appreciate more water during the summer.
In other words, it would probably fruit more if you gave it more water during the summer. That being said, is it a Fuerte? Nobody knows who the original donor is, nor, anything about the tree, other than it is an avocado tree. It was interesting looking, though pretty leggy. Is there a way to tell the age and type of tree I purchased? The tree is not flowering now, and the leaves do have some brown dots on them. Somehow, by luck, I grow weeds and African Violets very, very well.
Anything else should probably avoid my house. Sorry that the avocado information here is a bit overwhelming, but please suggest any more basic avocado topics that I might be able to write about in the future. I really want the website and information to feel very accessible and accurate at the same time, as far as possible. The first thing you must do is try to determine if the tree is a seedling or grafted.
Any idea? Do you see a line or bump on the trunk where it might have been grafted? I planted three trees, a Hass, Fuerte and Reed, per your other post about what to plant so I might have avocados ready to eat all year long. All three plants came from 15 gallon containers bought from Maddock in Fallbrook. All three plants got plenty of water but suffered a lot of tip burn over winter as I backed my watering times down, and the Hass dropped nearly all its leaves this spring, making me wonder if it would make it.
Reading all your posts on the various topics helped alleviate most of my concerns — the Hass grew all new leaves, on the other plants all the tip burned leaves have dropped and been replaced by nice new green ones. The Fuerte and Hass are still bare of fruit but otherwise healthy. Next I will count them and keep the gardener away from those precious babies. If things go well looks like I may be eating my own avocados next summer.
Thanks again for this whole site, its the very best on the subject of growing yummy stuff. What a pleasure it is to read this comment. Thanks for writing. I hope a couple of those Reed fruits hold for you! Hi Greg. I live in central California on the coast Santa Cruz County. Haas grow here pretty well but there is one that was created to grow just in our region. By chance do you know the name? Have been enjoying everything you are writing.
None are significantly more sensitive to cold than Hass. I also want to thank you for your wonderful site. You inspire and teach so many of us about avocados, gardening and so much more. I really appreciate what you do. I bought my house 14 years ago in Glendale because it had two massive fuerte trees in the back about 30 feet tall and even wider. They were more important to me than the house itself.
Unfortunately one fell over from some kind of rot at the base and the other bigger one had slowly been declining and drying up no matter how I watered. Finally after heavy pruning I mean a 20 foot limb and more and the great rain we had this spring it is completely rebounded, lush with massive dark leaves.
I can only see about 10 fruit on it but I figure it put its energy into leaf recovery for a while. Meanwhile in my panic of losing my last tree I bought a 36 inch box zutano, 15 gallon, lamb hass, bacon and sharwill, 5 gallon reed, hass, and mexicola. My friends say I have turned into a full on avocado nut. I have followed your watering advice with the micro sprinklers and I build a 2x 6 box around some and fill with mulch to keep dogs from getting to them then build shade structures for the summer.
The larger ones have fruit although the lamb hass and zutano dropped a bunch of baby fruit. Is that normal on its own? I will check the roots soon and probably get more wood chip mulch. All of these were planted since last summer so I have hope hearing you say that it takes a few years for the real production to start. I joined ca rare fruit growers association too to learn more and hopefully get a hang of grafting.
Greetings from the Avocado Nuts Club. And I have to mention that old avocados and Glendale have a personal history for me. My great-great grandfather lived there and grew a huge avocado seedling tree beside his house. I hope your big Fuerte recovers well. Nothing tastes better than a Fuerte, as far as my taste buds go. At that time, whatever remains on the tree is almost surely going to hang until maturity. A warning about Lamb, however, is that it tends to drop a few fruit just at the edge of maturity again around April or May.
This fruit is usually edible, but not nearly as good tasting as the ones that are allowed to hang deep into summer around 18 months after flowering. I love CRFG. They are such a wonderful group of people. Now you are going to have two addictions put together: avocados and grafting. Then your friends will get really worried. First of all I want to thank you for your wonderful advise and for sharing your wealth of knowledge with the e-community-it is much appreciated.
W are in Sydney and have planted 4 Avocado trees. A Bacon, a Pinkerton, a Wurtz and a Secondo. They are all grafted. The Bacon and Wurtz we planted in pots in January This year in March we transplanted them into the ground and planted the new ones. Last year the two original trees filled with flowers and I cut them off. Cutting the flowers off had a detrimental effect on the Bacon Avocado. So far the poor little thing is half its original size.
I have not fed them anything as I am too afraid to kill them. Thanks for your kind words. I almost never cut flowers off trees and the young ones still grow fine. Because I have chickens, I add some aged and composted chicken manure to the surface not tilled in around my young avocado trees.
I do this at planting time lightly and again after six months to a year or so. I find that the trees respond well to this regimen.
This summer, I successfully grafted scion wood from mature avocado trees onto seedlings that I started last year. Second question, am I still looking at years before I see fruit? Or am I looking at years because I just grafted them this year? My guess is that those trees in five-gallon containers at Home Depot were probably grafted just under a year prior to when you see them for sale there.
They could be bit younger than that depending on what time of year they were grafted, which variety they are, and whether they were kept in a heated greenhouse. But you could get lucky and get fruit earlier, for sure. Finally, it depends on the varieties, as some flower earlier than others. Thanks for these wonderful posts! Would you consider that a dangerous time to plant it due to potential cold weather?
Thank you, Nadeem. Your choice: plant in winter but be prepared to protect from cold, or wait until March and you no longer need to worry about cold until next winter, anyway. Planting in winter is more work and worry, but having the patience to wait until March can also be hard! As a fun project, I started a Hass avocado from seed when my kids were little. That was 25 years ago! The tree was repotted several times in larger pots than eventually planted in the yard.
This year it has several but they are all small and only present on a small portion of the tree. This tree is now over 30 ft tall and beautiful.
We never noticed blossoms until just a couple years ago. Is this just the start of great things to come? Production is more every year but all fruit is small large fig size perfect for sandwich serving. Will fruit get bigger and will the entire tree eventually produce with time? Comments appreciated.
What a fun and surprising story! Same with fruit size and quality. Some trees have fruit that varies more than others each year. For instance, the size and shape will vary slightly and the amount of fibers inside will vary. But the amount of change is not extreme. I know its a grafted tree but am new to this so not sure how to identify the graft. At the soil level, i see two branches growing one more vigorous than the other. I am concerned that the more vigorous one might be from the rootstock.
If so, I think it might need to be removed? If so how can I identify which branch to cut off. Would winter be a good time to remove it? If the branches are growing at the soil level, then they are likely rootstock suckers. If you ever get frost on the ground in your yard, then wait until March to cut those branches. But if you never see frost, then cut them immediately. My god.. Thank you whoever decided that. All is well mostly because of your advice Greg. We were targeting early fall as you suggested.
A possum knocked three off and only ate one. Both of them rippened in about days. They tasted great so I can only imagine how they good they will been in a few more months. I put up an electric fence to keep any possums or raccoon out. So far very effective. The reed must have a gazillion flower buds this year and we have lots of bees. Just when I thought with so many flowers I see the tree growing and putting out even more flowers.
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